FRENCH INTERPRETATIONS

The pictures on this page are links to the originals, which are quite large, but much prettier. Click on any picture whose original you wish to see.

On March 22, 2002, thirty-three individuals under the able leadership of Professors Walter Sherwin and Robert Rivkin began a much-anticipated study tour of ancient and modern France. Sponsored by the Ancient Studies Department of the University of Maryland, Baltimore County, the tour included three days in southern France to visit historic sites (including Roman remains circa 120 BC – AD 480), and three days in Paris. We landed in Marseilles and immediately traveled to Aix-en-Provence for a much-needed rest in a very comfortable hotel. After a good night’s sleep and the first of many mouth-watering breakfast buffets, we were off to Avignon, our “home” away from home. For the next three days, well-informed and expert guides led our group to the sites. As we toured, I found myself taking mental notes about the different ways the sites were being presented to, and interpreted for, the visitor. Some of those thoughts are expressed in the following commentary.

View from the Hotel Roi René – Aix-en-Provence

AVIGNON

Avignon is a walled city located on the banks of the Rhône River. The Pont St-Bénézet, built in the 12th century, spans part of the river. It had 22 arches and linked papal Avignon with the kingdom of France. Floods destroyed much of it in 1668.

Pont St-Bénézet on the Rhône River

After dropping off our luggage, we were whisked away to see the sites. We first visited the Palace of the Popes. Effortlessly leading us around the interior of this massive structure, our guide explained that it was built in two phases (1334-42, Palais Vieux, Pope Bénédict XII: 1342-53, Palais Neuf, Pope Clément VI). Although the rooms were stripped of their former grand appearance during army occupation after the popes left Avignon in 1376, it is obvious that a great deal of time, energy and money is being spent on restoration of the complex. A few clues to that grandeur remain, and some rooms are enhanced so that visitors may understand what life was like for the Avignon popes. Fragments of tile flooring as well as ceramic vessels and other artifacts are displayed, but the restored private rooms of the popes are most spectacular. The walls of the popes’ chamber are painted a brilliant blue and decorated with vines, birds and animals, and the floor tiles resemble those displayed in glass cases. Before our departure to visit the Cathedral of Notre Dame des Doms (a charming cathedral adjacent to the palace), we tasted some wine of the Côtes du Rhône.

Cathedral of Notre-Dame des Doms and the Palace of the Popes

Early the next morning we were met by our tour guide, and visited:

LES BAUX DE PROVENCE

Les Baux is an impressive fortress on a rocky plateau, from whose heights unfolds a beautiful view of grapevines, fruit trees and fields which stretch across the valley floor. Les Baux dates to the Middle Ages and was home to feudal lords. According to our guide, it was one of many places where troubadours sang praises to highborn ladies. The day was clear and the Mistral wind was blowing. It somehow seemed appropriate that this wind from the Alps was blowing over us in this desolate place. We were given headphones and directed to follow the numbered interpretive signs. We climbed around at our own pace and explored as we listened to the recording designated for each sign. It turned out that the text on the signs was in both French and English. Because I found I was experiencing overload as I tried to listen to the recording, all associated recording options, and take in the sights as well, I chose to read the interpretation on the signs. This site provides a wealth of information about life in the Middle Ages.

Les Baux de Provence

ARLES (Arelate)

Currently located on the Rhône River, Arelate was a seaport. During the last two centuries BC, it imported goods such as pottery, wine, oil and iron from Rome, and conducted its own regional trade. We met our guide after lunch on our own. We had a quick tour of the Eglise St-Trophine, a 12th century church and cloisters, and then walked past the remains of a Roman theater to the Roman amphitheater. This is a well-preserved amphitheater used for bull fighting today. It closely resembles the Roman amphitheater in Nîmes (Nemausus), our next stop.

Amphitheater – Arles (I even managed to capture a rainbow in the picture.)

NÎMES (Nemausus)

According to Kindersley’s Travel Guide of France, Nemausus was an important crossroads in the ancient world, and during the 17th and 18th centuries Nîmes was a large textile-manufacturing town and produced denim, or cloth “de Nîmes”. Our guide brought us to view an Augustan temple, the Maison Carrée. The exterior is in remarkable condition, as it appears to have all of its decorative elements in place. The interior was being renovated. As a result, we were not allowed inside. We did not go inside the amphitheater either because of its similarity to the one in Arles. The exterior did appear to be in better condition than the one in Arles. This was due to the fact that it had just undergone an extensive renovation. The massive structure looked remarkably well preserved, but what was real? Perhaps the worn gray stones as opposed to the bright white unworn ones?

Maison Carrée -- Nîmes

Amphitheater - Nîmes

PONT DU GARD

Our final destination of the day was the fabulous Roman aqueduct, the Pont du Gard. Built during the first century AD, it is an example (according to D. S. Robertson in his book Greek and Roman Architecture) of Roman centering economy. The bridge is 160’ high and is part of an aqueduct that brought water 51 miles from a spring in Uzès to Nîmes for 400-500 years. We arrived at a most opportune time. The sun was beginning to set on this massive structure. It acted as a giant spotlight bringing out the splendor of the arches on this three-tiered bridge. This UNESCO World Heritage Site has a new entrance and exhibit building. The complex is encountered long before the bridge can be seen. It houses an exhibit “La Grande Expo.” Although closed during our visit, the “Expo” provides a number of experiences for visitors: a multimedia exhibit and film about the Pont du Gard; an area of fun and learning for children; an evening light show during the summer months; and a research library on themes developed in the multimedia exhibit.

La Grande Expo brochure

Our third and final day in southern France promised to be as exciting and interesting as the previous days had been. Philippe, our guide for the day, joined us on the bus, and we were off to see:

ST-REMY DE PROVENCE (Glanum)

Glanum was closed for renovations, but we did see a triumphal arch and the monument of the Julii (circa 40 BC). In addition we walked around the perimeter of the enclosed ruins which were archaeologically excavated in 1921. Glanum was a small Roman town previously settled by the Greeks. It was situated along an army crossroads. House foundations, the main road and temple columns were visible.

FONTAINE DE VAUCLUSE

Following this minor disappointment, we traveled to the Fontaine de Vaucluse. This is a spring located at the foot of a steep cliff in a blind canyon. Water seeps through the limestone hills into an underground river and usually gushes out during the winter. It is the source of the Sorque River. The walk to the fountain was a truly uplifting experience. The air was cool and sounds were muffled by the surrounding hills.

Fontaine de Vaucluse

VAISON-LA-ROMAINE

The archaeological site of Vaison-la-Romaine was settled during the Bronze Age and was a prosperous Roman town for five centuries. Twentieth-century excavations revealed portions of Vaison. However, much of the Roman town remains under a modern town. The site is well cared for. Structural walls have been stabilized and follow the footprint of excavated remains. Columns rise in place, and every feature is neat and tidy. We walked through the House of the Laurelled Apollo, a partially excavated large residence, and the Sanctuary with Porticoes, a partially excavated religious complex on our way to the museum. The museum traces the site’s history and displays artifacts found during the excavations. The exhibit follows a logical chronological sequence and is well presented. It is also spotless. Fortunately, we had an English-speaking guide, and were given a brochure in English. Otherwise, much of the site’s story would have been lost to us since most interpretive signs were in French only. (Those of us clever enough to walk through with Robert Rivkin got a full translation.) After our visit to the museum we walked to the theater, which has been partially restored. Modern seating arranged in tiers helps envision what the original seating might have looked like. But to get a much better idea we stopped in Orange to see its Roman theater.

House of the laureled Apollo – Vaison-la-Romaine

Theater – Vaison-la-Romaine

ORANGE (Arausio)

Arausio was founded in 36 BC. It was a colony for veterans of Julius Caesar’s second legion. The town became known as Orange during the occupation of the Dutch House of Orange. Two magnificent Roman monuments are located in Orange, a triumphal arch, built to celebrate Rome’s victory over the Gauls, and the theater. The arch is covered with battle scenes, flowers and fruit. The theater is amazing! Not only has it survived the ravages of time, but it has also been restored and lovingly maintained. We experienced its perfect acoustics when Steven performed a monologue and song from “Man of La Mancha.”

Triumphal arch – Orange

Theater – Orange

Orange was the last site of the day and the last site to be visited in southern France. Sadly, our time in southern France had come to an end, but new experiences were anticipated as we prepared to travel to Paris.

Early the next morning we boarded the TGV. This high-speed train (up to 186 mph) propelled us to the pulsing metropolis of Paris in a mere 2 hours and 31 minutes.

TGV train station in Avignon

PARIS

Our guides in Paris were exceptionally professional. Seemingly without effort, they led us around kilometers of tourist lines, and provided informative dialogue as we traveled from site to site. Some of the many sights we saw were:

THE LOUVRE

Originally built as a fortress in 1190 by King Philippe Augusta as protection against Viking raids, the Louvre has been altered, improved upon, and enlarged over the centuries. We were given information brochures (similar to way-finding brochures found at the Smithsonian Museum) as we were led to view the exhibits in this famous museum. We saw the recently excavated bases of the twin towers and drawbridge built by King François Iier (constructed between 1515 and 1547), and world famous art such as the Greek marble statues Vénus de Milo and the Winged Victory of Samothrace, the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci, and the Raft of the Medusa by Théodore Géricault (1819).

The Louvre

EIFFEL TOWER

The Eiffel Tower was built in 1889 for the Universal Exhibition and to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution. It is 1,046’ tall and was the tallest building in the world until the Empire State Building was completed in 1931. The tower has many amenities for the visitor’s comfort and pleasure. On the first level is a post office and audiovisual museum. On the second level is a restaurant. We rode the elevator to the third level and were rewarded with a panoramic view of the city. All levels have gift shops and restrooms and crowds of tourists.

View from the Eiffel Tower

STREET MARKET

Early one morning we explored the streets around our hotel. We came upon this colorful market scene.

Street market

Outside of Paris we saw:

CHARTRES

La Cathédrale de Chartres was started in 1020. It was destroyed by fire in 1194, but was rebuilt and completed in 25 years. It is a Gothic cathedral and contains the Veil of the Virgin said to have survived the 1194 fire. Notable features include a 13th-century labyrinth and stained glass windows installed between 1210 and 1240. The windows were removed for “safe keeping” during the First and Second World Wars. A program to restore the windows is ongoing.

Chartres

VERSAILLES

Louis XIV started Versailles in 1668 on the site of Louis XIII’s hunting lodge. Three kings lived and held court at Versailles: Louis XIV, Louis XV and Louis XVI. Life for royalty at Versailles was unbelievably ostentatious. Each room is elaborately decorated with gold, marble, sumptuous fabrics and rich colors. The official staterooms are dedicated to Olympian deities. In the queen’s bedroom the queens of France gave birth to the royal children in public view. The Hall of Mirrors is 233’ long. A combination of mirrors, arched windows and chandeliers make the room sparkle. The grounds are just as ostentatious. They epitomize the 17th-century use of land by the rich. “The conspicuous use of land to adorn one’s residence, without any return of crops or fattening of cattle was a sign of power, and wealth – English landlords, and even the English Monarch could not afford this ostentation” (The History of Gardens, Christopher Thacker).

Versailles

The queen’s bed

In the end I think our group will agree that the people of France are justifiably proud of their historical and cultural heritage, and that they have provided the necessary support for all to enjoy the country’s many irreplaceable sites.

Study tour group 2002