Cold Green Fire

This essay was published in the August 1999 issue of Canoe and Kayak magazine. Copyright Bryan MacKay.

The dying of the the day reflects gold and amber and fire-red in the sky over Wye East River. A September day that has been windy, cloudy and unseasonably cold finishes with a silent symphony of colors on the westering horizon. Overhead, the first few stars of evening emerge as a deep violet sky fades ever more quickly to black. From this vantage point, in a canoe sitting motionless at the mouth of Pickering Creek, the ebony water and jet-black forest merge into a seamless tapestry of darkness. For once, it is quiet out on this busy river; no man-made sound mars the blessed silence. We float without movement, suspended between sky and water, in perfect quietude, a flawess moment in time and space.
But schedules and obligations call; we break the spell, turn, and paddle for the solitary light marking the dock at Pickering Creek Environmental Center. We soon haul the canoes up on the low-tide beach, and look down in wonder where we step. There, in the wet sand of the receding tide, our footsteps are briefly outlined in a greenish-yellow glow. Within moments, it fades and is gone. Someone runs a paddle through the shallows, and it stirs up an even brighter if equally evanescent light. Water runs off a canoe as it is lifted up the bank; bilgewater cascades like phosphorescent paint down the steps. We are enchanted by the phenomenon; although blooms of luminescent algae are well known, few of us have actually seen them in Chesapeake Bay.
I lay my hand gently atop the water, then remove it and look. Two dozen lights of cold green fire dot my hand for a moment before fading. Each is a millimeter or two across, much larger than I would expect from the typical microscopic algae cells that usually compose luminescent plankton in estuary waters. In the library the next day, the mystery is solved. The only macroscopic luminescent alga is not really an alga at all; Noctiluca is a dinoflagellate, a single-celled protozoa that moves with the aid of a whip-like flagella. Noctiluca gives off a flash of light in response to touch or other disturbance. Scientists believe this spark of green light has evolved as a protection against being eaten; a predator startled by a suddenly luminescent mouthful of food may release it. Even the biochemical nature of the flash is known. An enzyme found in Noctiluca, luciferase, releases light when it converts substrate to product. Other kinds of organisms have luciferase; the same enzyme causes fireflies to glow on summer evenings.
Back at the water's edge, I kneel down on the sand and peer into the waters of Pickering Creek. From a foot away, the water is filled with tiny dots of light; it is like looking at the stars. But unlike those in the sky, these fluvial stars blink on and off, tiny pulsars in an infinite galaxy where time is compressed from millenia into seconds. Every so often, a shooting star streaks across the firmament; I suspect a grass shrimp, judging by the herky-jerky motion, but it is far too dark to see.
Those of us who are scientists look at the world, and ask questions: why, how, wherefore. We study, hypothesize, measure, analyze, compare and examine. But every now and again, as on this evening, the simple wonder and child-like pleasure of merely enjoying the natural world takes over. Looking down into the blackness of water and seeing the stars of heaven winking on and off in a cold green fire is a mystery both amazing and marvelous.